MOLENE’S CHARACTER AND LOCATION
Little Molène gives its name to a whole, atmospheric archipelago. It lies beyond Brittany’s northwest tip, between the mainland port of Le Conquet and the famed, or infamous, island of Ouessant, or Ushant.
To reach Molène, you pass by an intriguing array of smaller, uninhabited islands. The waters are by turns crystal clear, thanks to the white sands below, by turns inky black, because of all the seaweed. Many of Molène’s neighbouring isles are nature or ornithological reserves, and some grey seals reproduce in these parts. The whole archipelago, like Ouessant, forms part of the Parc Naturel Régional d’Armorique and of the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve of the Mer d’Iroise, helping protect its natural and maritime environment.
Getting here and around the island
Compagnie Maritime Penn ar Bed
1er Éperon - Port de Commerce - CS 92928
29229 Brest Cedex 2
Tél. 02 98 80 80 80
www.pennarbed.fr
Crossing takes :
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1h30 from Brest with stopover at Le Conquet
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30 mins from Le Conquet
Book in advance.
On Molène, we only get around by foot !
Accommodation
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1 hotel
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Municipal campsite.
List of accommodation available online or at the town hall and the tourist office
For sailors
12 anchorages : Information at the town hall.
Municipal showers and toilets near the museum.
Debate over the origins of the name Molène has produced some amusing theories. Could it have evolved from the Breton word for a mill, or baldness, or even a nipple? The island has had a couple of mills on it; trees are certainly scarce here; and there is a raised point at Molène’s centre… Perhaps, more simply, the name derives from that of an owner of the island in medieval times called Moall. What’s certain is that Molène is very low-lying and exposed to the elements, receiving regular batterings by storms. It tends to be an exhilarating place to visit!
The inhabitants used to live from fishing, agriculture, and selling algae. These traditions have been maintained to a degree, despite the drop in population over the last century. Some 200 inhabitants remain in the village houses scattered higgledy-piggledy beyond the welcoming natural harbour, with its manmade jetty attached. The church, which dominates the village, is in 19th-century Breton style. It replaced a previous edifice that suffered the full force of destructive weather.
A museum recalls the victims of the terrible shipwreck of a British vessel beside Molène in the late-19th century. Another museum concerns rescues at sea more generally. In 1995, one determined islander, Jo Le Guen, rowed across the Atlantic single-handed to raise funds for the cause.
A protected beach lounges by the harbour, but beware of strong currents elsewhere. The obvious expedition on Molène is to walk all the way round the coastal path. The Maison de l’Environnement Insulaire, open at weekends, explains the island’s natural riches; in high season, guided walks are organized from here. Look out for possibilities of boat trips round the archipelago, and for details on musical events. But in a place like this, all activities are pleasurably small scale.
BRITISH CONNECTIONS WITH MOLENE
The shipwreck, in 1896, of The Drummond Castle, a liner travelling from South Africa to Britain, is one of the greatest catastrophes remembered on Molène. The islanders saved two men and treated the drowned they found with great dignity. By the church, you can still see the well-maintained graves of those who died. Queen Victoria thanked the Molènais by giving them a clock for the church and a much-needed rainwater reservoir. The Archbishop of Canterbury sent a precious gold goblet for Holy Communion wafers.
To document
Visit the gallery
Download documentation
