Sein

Presentation

SEIN’S CHARACTER AND LOCATION

Renowned as a feisty little island, Sein is just visible out to sea from the Pointe du Raz, which the French consider their Land’s End, at the southwest tip of Brittany. The island is set amidst a long line of reefs known as the Chaussée de Sein, stretching over 25km east to west. Sein itself barely seems to keep its head above water – the highest point on the island doesn’t reach10 metres above sea level! It has plenty of character though.

Getting there, getting around, accommodation and eating out

A touring and historical guide

A powerful legend concerning Sein revolves around a mysterious ancient Celtic oracle on the island. The soothsayer was said to be surrounded by nine virgin druidesses, the Senes. Their supernatural powers were reckoned to include whipping up storms. However, people desperate for a glimpse of their future still risked the journey to consult the oracle.

Nowadays, the main delight for visitors making the one-hour boat trip from Audierne is the charming single port-cum-village. The place may look very quaint, but life here hasn’t always been rosy. It was said that in centuries past, certain inhabitants encouraged shipwrecks. In fact, many participated in valiant efforts to save those in distress, as recalled in the Abri du Marin, or fishermen’s centre, turned into a museum on sea rescues.

The village’s Ecomusée-Musée du Souvenir recalls both island traditions and torrid times, for example three occasions in the 19^th century when the swelling sea seemed ready to swallow Sein. Traditional fishing has dwindled as stocks have diminished and many islanders have left for work on the mainland.

There are atmospheric cafés, plus two hotels and other tourist accommodation. It’s easy to meet the locals here. Do also say hello to the big Chatters… who turn out to be two character-filled neolithic menhirs that look like they’re enjoying a good chinwag outside the church!

It’s an easy walk to either of the two curved extremities of the island. The main mini-excursion on Sein is to the lighthouse marking one end. In high summer, you can extend this walk vertically, climbing to the top for splendid views across the island, and to further lighthouses out to sea, such as the mighty Ar-Men. Also pay your respects to the war memorial nearby, recalling the bravery of the men of Sein in the Second World War.

BRITISH CONNECTIONS WITH SEIN

In those dark days when France was first occupied during the Second World War, the men of Sein showed exceptional determination not to surrender to the invading Germans. In June 1940, Charles de Gaulle broadcast a desperate message, via the BBC in London, asking all Frenchmen willing and able to fight for France’s freedom to join him across the Channel. The vast majority of the men of Sein immediately responded, beginning the long battle for France’s liberation. For this collective show of bravery, the whole island was awarded the Croix de Libération in 1946, and President de Gaulle came in person to inaugurate the war memorial on Sein in 1960.